Wylie’s Convertible Cabbage Salad

Recipe by: Wylie Peremarti
Adaptation and headnote by: Leslie Brenner

Say hello to a highly customizable, umami-happy cabbage situation — one that (vegan or not) will thrill you for lunch after lunch. It’s also terrific to bring to a picnic or potluck, or as a starter or side for a barbecue or sit-down dinner.

The constant is the dressing — based on lime juice and miso, sesame oil and ginger. It calls for Korean gochujang for a bit of kick, but no worries if you don’t have that; just toss in some chile flakes. Or not. Its tangy, gingery vibe is inspired by California-style Chinese chicken salad.

As for the cabbage, anything goes. It’s super nice with Napa cabbage, or a combo of Napa and red cabbage. Or just use red (or green) cabbage. Choose scallions or red onions for a little pizzazz, and red bell and celery for, well, just because they’re good. Cilantro or parsley for herbal verve. Use a sharp knife and a steady hand to …