Cooks Without Borders

Cooks Without Borders

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Cooks Without Borders
Cooks Without Borders
Gorgeous, buzzy Persian dessert that's fun to make
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Gorgeous, buzzy Persian dessert that's fun to make

A rose-water cream roll that's having a modern Iranian moment can land on your table tonight.

Leslie Brenner's avatar
Leslie Brenner
May 03, 2025
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Cooks Without Borders
Cooks Without Borders
Gorgeous, buzzy Persian dessert that's fun to make
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A Rose Water Cream Roll prepared from a recipe in ‘Food of Life’ by Najmieh Batmanglij

If you’ve ever dined in an Iranian home or cooked from an outstanding Persian cookbook, you probably know that the most thrilling and Iranian cooking happens in homes, not restaurants.

That’s why I was excited, a couple weeks ago, to see a story in Eater: “Inside the Next Generation of Iranian Restaurants.” I love Persian cooking, and being from Los Angeles — where the largest population of Iranian-Americans in the U.S. resides — I was spoiled by the city’s excellent Iranian establishments and beautiful culture there.

How fantastic that, as Sara Akhavan reports in her Eater story, a more-nuanced kind of Iranian cooking — often with a modern bent — has started to blossom in restaurants from L.A. and San Diego to Atlanta and New York City.

One of the dishes Akhavan spotlights in the story is a dessert from Voodoo Vin, a natural wine bar and “Persian country kitchen” in L.A., co-owned by chef Natalie …

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